The Southland's Hidden Sushi Gem: Mori Sushi

Since my first food-related review on this blog was squarely focused on New York City, it seems only fair to provide some space to that other coast, so oft neglected by those with a Euro-centric food-view.

This comment will likely have sent some west coasters into an uproar, and who can blame them? To be sure, in recent decades cities such as Portland and San Francisco have become food tourism destinations, while the likes of Waters and Keller are household names. Our sushi journey, however, takes us to a less obvious location: Los Angeles. Local sushi-goers may already be thinking "Matsuhisa" or "Urasawa" but for some of us, sushi in the land of movie stars is synonymous with "Mori."

Mori Sushi is located in West L.A., near Santa Monica. Modest to a fault, this small restaurant goes unnoticed by most passers-by, lacking any clear type of signage. Inside, the decor is minimalist to say the least, and the message is clear: food takes center-stage here.

While not as delicate as Yasuda's sushi, Mori's offerings display evident attention to quality and detail. Much like his New York counterpart, Morihiro Onodera is a sushi traditionalist who knows the exact origin of every ingredient, going so far as to grow and harvest his own rice. If you perceive a similarity between these two sushi masters, this is no coincidence: the men studied together and share a holistic approach to their art form.

Perhaps even more of a purest than his east coast colleague, Mori uses only fish, rice and vegetables in the preparation of his menu, and even makes his own plates, bowls and cups by hand. (The less rustic dishware for sale in the small display case to the right of the sushi bar is not made by Mori and his staff.) Along with the sous-chefs' knife skills and first-rate ingredients, Mori's philosophy is incarnated in his food and makes for a uniquely authentic dining experience.

At a Glance:

Overall rating: 16/20
Food: 16/20
Service: 17/20
Ambiance: 12/20

Special tips: If ordering omakase, sit at the bar; this best-kept sushi secret is known among local connoisseurs and the location is small, so reservations are recommended even for lunch (though not mandatory); be warned that, given the restaurant's small size, parties of six or more must order omakase—no exceptions; on-time arrival is recommended, especially if you plan to become a regular.

Best dishes: Any of the sushi; at lunch, the sushi deluxe is particularly nice and the bento box offers a way to sample a variety of items, including tempura, also making for a nice change from pure sushi (what? who could possibly feel the need to eat anything but sushi?).

To be avoided: The miso soup (included with some lunch items) can be a little on the smokey side and less hot than desired; all the dishes are good but asking for wasabe or soy sauce when sitting at the counter is to be avoided, a definite sushi faux-pas.

Mori Sushi contact information:
11500 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
310-479-3939