The Best Sushi Outside Tokyo: Sushi Yasuda (NYC)

To celebrate my newest domain name acquisition—UniSashimi.com, which will instantly be recognized by sushi and sashimi connoisseurs around the globe (none of whom read this blog) as a most enviable address—, I have decided to treat my still nonexistent reader to a short series of sushi restaurant reviews.

One very special name instantly comes to mind as I begin this series: Naomichi Yasuda. A veritable altar devoted to raw fish, New York City's Sushi Yasuda is in my estimation the finest sushi restaurant outside of Tokyo.

Admittedly, this is a bold statement requiring elaboration. Here goes. Though many claim to master the art of sushi preparation, few actually do. Yasuda is an exception. A sushi purest who hearkens from a small fishing village in the Chiba prefecture of Japan, he displays the deep-rooted respect for his ingredients that was instilled in him from a young age. It goes without saying he prepares his rice to perfection and selects only the very freshest of fish. However, Yasuda and his sous-chefs also season each piece of sushi so that no additional soy sauce or wasabe is required on the part of the diner. Using real wasabe root, house-made shoyu and an occasional sprinkling of sea salt or lemon juice, each morsel of fish is flavored according to its particular attributes, without ever being overpowered. (More on the current trend to over-season or over-sauce in subsequent reviews.)

Additionally, Sushi Yasuda serves very delicate slices of fish. While novices may view this as "poor value," this is actually a refined and traditional approach to sashimi and nigiri sushi preparation. If diners eat at the counter, each piece of fish will in fact be slightly customized to fit the patrons' mouth sizes, always remaining delicate enough to be eaten in a single bite. No gigantic pieces of fish drooping over their supporting rice here! For specific menu recommendations, see the “At a Glance” section below.

Two final notes. 1) While many sushi restaurants only serve their best fare at the counter, quality is equally good at Yasuda's tables. 2) Be warned that Yasuda is devoted to sushi and sashimi in their purest forms. You won't find any fancy (and oft mayonnaise-laden) rolls on the menu. (Don't get me started on these!) Nor will you find much beyond sushi and sashimi (miso and ushio soups of a surprisingly delicious nature for this type of sushi establishment, grilled fish and a few appetizer items making-up the exceptions).

Yasuda takes his fish seriously and, for serious devotees of sushi who live outside Japan or travel to the U.S., his is the place to head.

At a Glance:

Overall rating: 18/20
Food: 18/20
Service: 18/20
Ambiance: 16/20

Special tips: Large parties can opt for omakase service at the tables, receiving the same quality as at the bar; lunch at Yasuda is excellent and more affordable than dinner; cooked options are few and far between so only true sushi aficionados should cross this restaurant’s threshold; similarly, no California or other fancy rolls are available (but traditional eel, tuna and similar rolls are); reservations are a must and patrons should make sure they arrive on time; if dining at the sushi counter, be prepared for a bill on par with your meal’s high caliber.

Best dishes: any of the sushi or sashimi, whether by the piece, in one of the lunch combinations or omakase-style, especially those recommended by Yasuda (indicated in red on the à la carte sushi menu); in season, the white king salmon is exceptional; for those seeking cooked options, golden deep-fried shrimps coated with a touch green tea make a nice starter; ushio (clear fish broth) and ara jiru (miso with fish bone-based broth) soups are very simple (no tofu, mushrooms or other additions) but amazingly flavorful and always served piping hot.

To be avoided: nothing—really! However, the beautiful and colorful seaweed salads are a little on the bland side.

Sushi Yasuda contact information:
204 E. 43rd St.
New York, NY 10017
212-972-1001